Sophia Rizos | January 19, 2016 | 3 min read
“Sushi is always different”: Vancouver’s very own Chef Tojo

Chef Hidekazu Tojo opened his restaurant, Tojo’s in 1988 after working as a chef in various restaurants. We sat down with him to know more about him, his zeal for Japanese cuisine and much more.

Emma

Tell us a bit about why you started a life in the world of food. Also, why do you love this industry and where did you get your breakthrough?

My mom used to cook but my dad only ate chicken sometimes, so when I had free time I would cook for my family. I came here in 1971 and there were no sushi restaurants back then. There was an old ‘Japanese’ town near Hastings and Powell by Main Street. I worked in a restaurant there called Maneki. Then in 1988, on Broadway, I opened Tojo’s and there were no Asian customers because sushi was just about becoming more popular.

How has sushi changed in Vancouver?

Sushi is now very popular. Back then, I had to make sushi that people here would like so I created the inside-out roll – California and BC Roll. People started to come often and they saw me prepare the raw fish and started to like it. There is a big problem with diabetes in North America and the Japanese diet is very clean and healthy, and people see that. Now my rolls are made everywhere, but I make sure to have the quality.

While Chef Tojo agrees that sushi has made a monumental shift from its traditional roots, he also agrees that the Japanese style of cuisine can be molded to incorporate new and exciting ingredients.

What is your inspiration? People? What drives the creativity with your food?

People don’t inspire me. New ingredients inspire me. I went to Hawaii and other places and I have always gone to farmer’s markets to see an ingredient I haven’t seen before. Of course, I try everything, and make something from it. I get very excited when I get to try and create dishes with new ingredients.

What ingredient are you most excited about to work with this year?

This year, we went to Arctic and tried Greenland shrimp. They are small and delicious. I will reach out to get the product from local suppliers because I want to serve it here.

What surprised you the most about the food in that region?

I had a little bit of seal and caribou which was very plain tasting and without seasoning. If I lived in the Arctic, I would probably like it because it is good meat but I live in a Western country and I would prefer more seasoning.

What is the crowning moment of your career?

I think when famous people like Pink Floyd, Paul Simon, Steven Tyler and Bon Jovi come to try my food, because they come from so far. 65% of the rich and famous people visiting Vancouver come here. It is because I create specials everyday that show the local flavour. My food is always high end and I know everything about it.

With over 40 years experience in the restaurant industry, Chef Tojo not only sticks to his roots in his own kitchen but works with young and aspiring chefs to help develop their careers.

What advice do you have for aspiring sushi chefs?

Each chef should offer their originality, use local ingredients, local seafood and local produce. Use 50% local and the other 50%, make it your own style.

What are you most excited about 2016?

Next spring chefs from Denmark are coming because sushi is getting popular there as well. They have heard about me and I will judge five or six chefs in a competition, here in Vancouver.

What is your area of focus this year?

I would like to get more ingredients. People who come from out of town want to eat Pacific Northwest products, and they have been coming to Tojo’s for a long time because I use local and Japanese. I will be using fugu, which is a Japanese blowfish, and is popular in the wintertime as well as king crab because there are many different types. They are a delicacy. People in today’s market are looking for seasonal fish – yellowtail, spot prawns, and ocean eels are just a few I cook with. With today’s technology being so good, you can get fresh fish, have it vacuumed it and add oxygen in the water and ship to Canada so it ends up being super fresh.

What is your favorite thing to make? To eat?

Sushi, because you can never get tired of it. Sushi is always different. I have people come three times a week, sometimes more. If it is fresh and local, you can never be tired of sushi!

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